Monday, April 27, 2009

Tadiandamol trek

I logged into my orkut profile as usual, in the updates I happened to see some pictures with green pastures all around with mist engulfed. The curiosity made me get into Raghavendra's profile and check them. He had been to Tadiandamol a few days back. I was shocked and took some time to actually believe that these pictures were taken just days before. Its summer and seeing such green pastures is a rare sight. I immediately thought of making it to that place and gathered more info. I spoke to Vivek, Munielgappa sir and then to Raghavendra regarding the same. I checked with my usual trekking pals and some of whom who had shown interest in treks earlier. None of them could make it for various reasons. I am grateful to the gurukula team for coming along. Vivek was the only one who couldn't make it sadly.

The plan was to leave early morning by 0600 hrs but as always we got delayed for reasons best known to us and kicked off our journey an hour later in my truck. Mysore road was more than willing to welcome us with light traffic. Driving through the road was a pleasure indeed. The first pit stop was Maddur Coffee day as its my tradition to visit that place. Quick breakfast was had and then the journey was resumed. After Srirangapatna, there is a deviation which leads to Rangantittu bird sanctuary. This is a short route to Hunsur road which could be taken to avoid going all the way to Mysore and then deviating. 20 kms later we hit the 4 lane Hunsur road and a few minutes later we reached the town. A left turn after the bus stand leads to Irupu Falls and Nagarahole which we happened to take. This was a circuitous route to Gonikoppulu.

In Nagarahole range many deer were spotted on the roadside. Since it was noon time we couldn't see any other animal. The extra distance travelled was realized only when we reached Gonikoppulu. From there we headed to Virajpet and kakkabe. Nalaknad Palace is at the base of Tadiandamol peak. The peak is the highest at 1745 meters MSL. It was 1500 hrs and we kick started our trek from the palace itself. There is a tar road which leads upto Jungle Boot camp which is about 2 kms. We chose to walk that distance though the road was very steep. After the boot camp, a jeep track goes upwards for a distance of about 1.5kms up to the second stream. Mid-way we stopped to have lunch with the view of the never ending green hillocks. While we were about to resume our walk, I saw a black snake cross the jeep track. It was easily 6 to 7 feet long. When I described about it to my co-trekkers, they said it was a rat snake. An attempt to look for it turned futile as it got into the nearby bushes. Once the second stream was crossed, the track narrowed down to a foot trail which looked like a path taken very often. It was an easy walk to the open grasslands. A pointed hill stood ahead of us which we assumed to be the peak. Another group was camping at the base of that hill. Since it was pointed, we too chose to camp at the base. Sam and Shankar went up to have a look if there is a possibility to camp on top. Shoba too joined them. While they returned, they came along with some of the other trekkers who had camped nearby. Among them there was Uma Shankar, an avid trekker and a naturist who resides in Hebbal, BLR. A conversation with him was indeed interesting and educative.

It was cloudy and misty, so there could be a possibility of rain. 6 people in a 4 man tent was not a good idea. Thanks to Sam for getting it. Shankar, Sam and I decided to sleep out while Abhishek, Prarthana and Shoba were to sleep inside. It was cold though it was summer. All jackets were out. We hit the bed pretty early. Middle of the night I woke up cause it was very warm inside the sleeping bag. I just happened to touch the sleeping bag outside, it had dew deposited on it and was all wet but surprisingly it was warm inside.

Day 2 started a little late. By 8 we began to ascend. All bags were packed and the tent was removed by then. We had company that early in the morning. It's a frequented hill cause it can be climbed in a day. Prarthana hurt her knee unfortunately while climbing up. Some how she managed to come along with us. Every time I looked back while climbing my eyes were overwhelmed with joy looking at the remarkable hill ranges. The hillocks continued to fade till it reached the horizon. In an hour or so we were on top of the peak. Our hearts were exhilarated standing tall on the highest peak in the midst of the Coorg range. Having breakfast at this height was a nostalgic experience. It's a feel good factor when you know that you are on top of the highest peak (though only 1745 mtrs above MSL) in coorg. A good one hour was spent admiring the encompassing hill ranges. A trail of humans could be seen in the path which we took which extended as far as a kilometer. It wasn't a good sign and hence we began to descend.

Abhishek and Shankar literally were running down hill. Greeting other trekkers who were on their way up became a routine. All had one question to ask. "How long would it take to reach on top?". We did reply to them politely but then some faces were happy while the rest were somber hearing to the approximate time which they would require to reach on top. Where you find humans frequenting, there you would find their traces which is evident. How? Litter everywhere. Many plastic bottles, wrappers and covers were picked up. By 1200 hrs we were down at the palace.

The Nalaknad summer palace though small had its own beauty. The rooms were inter-linked like a maze, one after the other. The walls were all artistically painted with human figures, but sadly many of it was whitewashed. The roof was nothing less; it was decorated in length and breadth with beautiful carvings. A two storey palace had a Darbar in the second floor where the king used to have his meetings with the courtisans.

Time to leave. We headed straight to virajpet and then got into some other route to Mysore. We decided to turn back though we had covered close to 10 kms as the roads were very narrow. Gonikoppulu was the next stop where we had a relishing lunch. The return journey couldn't have been better if not for the rains which cooled down the weather completely and made it pleasant. Driving through heavy rain is something which I always crave for. Maddur Coffee day refreshed our tired souls as usual. Reaching BLR by night completed the weekend programme.

Getting there: Bangalore – Srirangapatna – Hunsur – Gonikoppulu – Virajpet – Kakkabe – Nalaknad Palace. Bus frequency from BLR to Virajpet is good enough, however from Virajpet to Nalaknad Palace the frequency is very low.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Night Navigation

Visiting Gurukula is a weekend routine for us since we were on training. Rock climbing, bouldering, navigation were some of the activities which we have been learning to improve our capabilities and techniques. It was just another week was my assumption and thought we would most probably be doing some climbing or bouldering. We were surprised when we were told by Munielgappa sir that we would be sent out for night navigation on that Saturday. A session explaining the ways to use the maps and the Silva compass was carried out by him in the evening. All of us did learn much of it and were about to put it to use very shortly. We had a quick dinner and were all eagerly waiting for the navigation.

We were split into two teams. Abhishek, Rupendra, Sam and Shoba were in one team; Pallavi, Prarthana, Shankar, Vivek and myself in another. "Target is a hill at 108 degrees 4 kms away from here" said Munielgappa sir. We noted as many landmarks he gave so that we didn't miss any. Shankar and I had missed our first night navigation almost 7 years ago; we didn't want to do the same again as well. Notes read: from Gurukula. 1. You will find a hill which has to be on the left side as we pass. 2. Cultivation fields. 3. Mud road. 4. Temple and a village which has to be on the right side. Elephant pit 5. Cross the ditch and get into the forest. Move along the valley of two hills. 6. Climb the hill in front of you. (From the elephant pit a distance of 2 kms need to be travelled). 7. Watch tower on the top of the hill is the target. If we fail to reach before the deadline of 0000 hrs a search light signal would be given at 0005 hrs and a second signal at 0030 hrs so that we could move in that direction.

With so many landmarks, we were under the impression that it would be a cake walk. We started our navigation with Vivek leading our team. The start time was 2030 hrs. We had to reach the target before 0000 hrs. The total distance to be covered was 4 kms. We thought we would be able to cover it in a very short time. Exiting the Gurukula campus we could see the hill right in front of us with the moon light. Our first landmark we crossed as said, keeping the hill to our left. The usage of torches was bare minimum because the moon light was bright enough. The second team was spotted just behind us after which we never met them again nor could we see their torch lights anywhere.

We came across lots of fields, crossing them was easy as there were no crops grown. At times we had to hop, but then most of it was a normal walk amidst the rubbles. A mud road was spotted next, the 3rd landmark. We continued to proceed in the same direction of 108 degrees. A good pace was maintained as the team moved swiftly without any issues. A little confusion emerged here as we saw a fencing of a farm. Crossing it was slightly challenging, so we decided to go around. A while later we could spot street lights on our right, the village which we were supposed to keep on our right. The temple also fell to our sight as we moved. We rested for a few minutes and hydrated ourselves. Just after the road we found the elephant pit and then on the Bannerugatta forest range began.

We stepped in one after the other and followed each other like ants at close proximity. Navigating across huge trees which themselves acted like natural fence around the forest was exciting. Two hills stood on either side of us which formed a silhouette in the darkness caused by the moon light. A deep valley in between the hills gave us an impression that it would be an avoidable challenge of maneuvering in the thorny bushes as this area is known for the same. A look around the place revealed a rocky surface on the hill right of us. Consensus was achieved to traverse along this rocky patch and get back to the end of the valley once we cross the hill. Heading further we walked along the side of the ridge on the rock which looked like a miniature of the monolith in Savanadurga. Once we were at the corner we were unable to locate the target hill anywhere nearby. A quick discussion was commenced and possible options were considered. Since we were to cover 2 kms in the jungle we decided to continue further ahead as we had just walked 500 mtrs. Tall trees stood as though they were staring at the intruders of their territory. We silently went past them to come across a mud road. Our minds were puzzled as our sir never referred to any road in the jungle. Discussions were happening as we walked in our direction. A range of hillocks were found right in front of us, which were faintly visible at a far off distance. Convincing ourselves that we hadn't covered enough distance and the hillocks visible in front could be our target we continued ahead.

Bending, crawling, duck walks and alike were the ways we had to adopt to move in the thick shrubs. The paths made by the wild boars and other animals were the ones which we had to use to move. None of us were spared the wrath of the thorny bushes though we had dressed adequately. It was quiet tough for us to save our faces from them as well. Torches were used extensively to find possible routes. Fire was spotted on one side of the hill which we assumed was our target. Forest fires had been very common this season so there was no reason for us to backtrack and hence moved forward. It was almost 2330 hrs by the time we reached the base of the hill and were wondering why we weren't able to spot the other team anywhere. Climbing up the hill we reached a rocky patch en-route. Our bodies were given some rest here for a while and then we decided to wait there for the search light signal which would be given by 0005 hrs. Even after 0010 hrs, no where could a search light be seen. Climbing up the hill was the only option to figure out if that was the target hill. In less than 10mins we were on top and to our surprise we found a watch tower. We were glad that we made it but then none were around! Sir had told us that he and Momili ma'am would be on top waiting for us!

Our minds contemplated in deciding if this was the target hill or if we had missed it. However we thought to rest till 1330 hrs and then head back to Gurukula. Carrying mobile phones was strictly prohibited so we were virtually cut off from the Gurukula, so the only way to find out if we were on target or not was to return and find out. In the meantime while we were resting we heard strange noises all around. A kind of a trumpeting noise was heard at frequent intervals which we believed to be of an elephant's and thought it could be taking a bath by splashing water from its trunk (it was learnt later that the noise was from lose metal sheets on top of the watch towers which were swaying because of heavy winds). It was time to leave. Returning in the same path as we came was not possible cause we ourselves didn't remember much of it though we had a vague idea as to which direction we were heading.

Maneuvering across the shrubs was an uphill task which was inevitable and unavoidable. Finally we were out of these shrubs and approached the open land. A mud road was visible meters away. All of us decided to take the mud road assuming that it would take us out of the jungle; it was our exhausted selves which were making the decisions instead. Blame it on the thorny bushes which we had to cross twice. As we walked we were able to recall the places which we crossed while going upwards. Almost a kilometer of walk later we saw the road passing adjacent to a hill. I told my team we should climb up and check if this could possibly be the target hill. Almost on top but it was flat and wide. I insisted on checking out for the tower but then the tired souls were reluctant and I too gave up. Back to the road and walk and walk was the only thing we did. A road barricade was seen which was unmanned crossing which we were out of the forest area. The road was no good. The gravel on the road was hurting our heels big time cause of the continuous walk. Suddenly we happened to see Gurukula's jeep. We all jumped with excitement. We could still see the hill which we had half climbed but decided to continue to Gurukula. Walking down the road we crossed many villages and finally came near the temple which we had crossed in the beginning. From this location we took the same route as we had taken to come here and then finally reached Gurukula at 0430 hrs. First thing we did was to make a call to them saying that we are back. Then we realized that we had overshot the target. After an hour they arrived too.

Post breakfast we had a de-briefing session in which we explained the route which we took to reach the wrong hill. Sir could make out how we had missed and where we had been and told us that we had overshot by 2 kms cause we didn't get into the valley in between the hills. Shankar and I looked at each other with dismay and each of us questioning the same thing "why did our night navigation go so bad?" The other team had reached the target well before time.

We have taken it as a challenge to make our next navigation a success, even if we have to continue till day break to reach the target.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Ragihalli Betta trek


Shankar gave me a call and informed me that the Gurukula team would be heading to Bannerghatta National Park(BNP) for a trek to Ragihalli betta. It was close to 7 years since I last visted. One memorable place where, I had spent a night camping. The experience then was very exhilarating. It was the first time ever I had ventured into a jungle. It was with the same Nataraja Gurukula people we had been there then. I wanted to revive those nostalgic memories. One would seldom get such opportunities. Also it was quiet a while since I had been to a tiger safari. So thought could take some pics with my digicam. We were to rendezvous at the BNP gate on Saturday evening.

Post noon on Saturday, Prarthana, Shoba, Abhishek, Shankar and I set upon for a short ride to BNP. In no time we were there much ahead of the scheduled time of 1730 hrs. Mala maam, Momili maam, Munielgappa Sir, Pallavi and Rupendra happened to join us after a short while. On the way to Tiger safari, just behind the butterfly park is Mr. Suresh's farm. He had invited us to come down for an over night stay and for a trek to ragihalli betta. With all intros done, he was showing us the place and then we heard some kind of roaring. Mr. Suresh said that's the roar of a lion. All our faces lit up listening to him. I just rubbished what he said and didn't give much importance. He offered to take us to the rehabilitation center where these lions were given shelter. His farm is just adjacent to that center. We chose to see it immediately and proceeded that way. A lion was seen first, I couldn't believe my eyes looking at the massive creature in front of us. Entering inside the center, the guard took us to one of the buildings which had cages. 6 cages were in a row, 3 on the right and 3 on the left.

I just entered and looked at the left side and saw a huge lion. I was dumbstruck viewing at the magnificent beast at such close proximity. The lion in the second cage was even bigger and the third one had a lioness. They were enjoying their supper. We were glad to see them. They were just a few inches away from us. It was just a gate which separated us. Slowly we moved on to the right side to have a look at the other cages. A tiger stood there majestically staring at us. His head was huge, his paws massive and his coat vibrant. I had no words to say but to admire his beauty and valor. The next cage too had a tiger in it which was busy munching his meal and he was least bothered of our presence.

Prarthana, Abhishek and I headed to another building further down to have a look at the other cages. As we approached, one lion started roaring and soon the rest of them joined. It was deafening as all the 6 lions roared in chorus. What a welcome!!!. As we entered, one lion looked at us and opened his mouth wide open and yawned wondering it's the same old humans. The lions and lionesses were more gigantic than the ones which we saw earlier. They made our day! Soon the rest of the team joined in to have a look at the beasts. We thanked the guards and returned to the farm. The roaring continued in the background. Unfortunately, I could hardly take any pictures because it was already evening.

Upon returning, we were discussing about the wild cats which we saw and realized that Munielgappa sir and Pallavi never saw those tigers which were in the cages on the right side of the first building. They really missed it even though they were very much with us. Vivek joined in by 2000 hrs. Around 2200 hrs in the night, we headed for a drive towards Ragihalli village hoping to spot some wild animals. To our bad luck, we didn't spot any animal, not even an elephant. Probably we were little early or there could have been a probable migration of animals to a colder place for its being summer. However I happened to see a mongoose and a hare, thanks to my torch. We returned to the farm with disappointed faces.

Briefing session started almost immediately on our return. Had to get up early in the morning and be ready by 5:30 am so that we could have an advantage of time and we could be there early by noon. All retired to bed, some in the farm house, some in the car and some on the top of the jeep. One mosquito was enough to disturb my sleep as no repellant worked that night. I just felt I had closed my eyes just then, when I was woken up in the morning.


At 6 in the morning we started our walk towards Ragihalli betta.  Munielgappa sir knew the forest in and out as he had been here many a times since childhood. He took us by road which leads to the tiger safari. We reached one of the watch towers at Udaga bande, adjacent to a road. Shankar and my brains started digging out memories. We had camped here half night after the night navigation. We took a deviation from there and got into the valley as we spotted the elephant tank. The water was filthy. I really wonder how we managed to swim there 7 years ago. But it did look clean then.

The dried thorny bushes and shrubs kept us busy throughout as we had to scrape through a lot to cross. Many of us were still with scratches and thorns on our soft and tender skin even though dressed with full sleeves T-shirts/shirts. It was a scorching Sunday and the water we carried wasn't helping us much to quench our thirst. Every now and then we had to take a sip to maintain the hydration levels in our body. The sun was as usual sucking out all our energy.

Munielgappa sir took us to a bear cave which was some 30 meters long. Without a torch it was difficult to navigate inside. Initial plan of having breakfast inside the cave was shelved as it was pitch dark. We climbed up those huge boulders on top of the cave and then settled in for a yummy refreshing breakfast with a beautiful view of the range in the west. Bottles and bottles of water and juice ran through our food pipes which hardly helped us beat the heat.


Gathering our things we started climbing up the hill. It took about some 30 minutes for us to reach as we were already at the base where we had our breakfast. Once we reached on top of the hill, we went around looking at places and recalled our camp days. We had spent a night here when it rained like hell, which we will never fail to forget. The top of Ragihalli betta gives you a 360 degree view of the entire range if you walk around a little. The entire BNP can be seen. A while later we descended towards Ragihalli village which falls on the North East side of the hill. It was an easy walk as it was a bridal path. An hour later we hit the road before the village. People in one car and a tractor were kind enough to drop us till Bannerghatta circle which was around 8 kms away from where we happened to walk back to the farm house. The water melon pieces were damn relishing as they quenched our thirst finally. It was time to return and we started heading back.

Getting there: Bannerghatta National park is around 30 kms away from Bangalore city with very good bus services. Prior permission taken with the concerned authorities would be helpful during.

More pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/sunilbabuvk/RagihalliBettaGkl#